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Gnoccho Fritto con Affetati

My mother taught me at a very young age how to eat and still maintain the integrity of one’s lipstick.  So when Signor Morandi served me my first plate of gnoccho fritto, and I picked up a knife and fork, you can imagine his expression.  He patiently showed me how to fold it, proving that the integrity of his gnocchi far outweighed the integrity of my lipstick.  

Gnoccho Fritto con Affetati - literally translated: knot or lump fried with salami.  

The more detailed translation: Small squares of dough that puff into light, hollow, airy pillows when deep-fried.  The crust is thin, golden and cracker-like, with a little give that consents to folding without crumbling.  These gnocchi are usually topped right out of the hot fat with thinly-sliced cured meats (prosciutto, prosciutto cotto and various salamis), which are then folded like a sandwich and eaten warm.  The heat slightly melds the fat-laced prosciutto with the warm pastry -- it’s quite a rich textural experience.

Not always getting great results with other recipes, I experimented a while and created a recipe I love.  It’s not for the faint-hearted, even with olive oil replacing the lard.  But, it’s a very easy process.  And good news for those who don’t have the best of luck with yeast-risen projects, gnoccho fritto is rolled and fried - no unforgiving rising sequence or rebellious gluten.  Just remember to leave the flatware in the drawer, gnoccho fritto tastes better folded over, plus, you don’t lose your salami.  

 

Easy Pulled Pork Sandwich - In the Spirit of North Carolina

‘Cue is the great sacrament of our people.  No transubstantiation required.  It are what we are.

--North Carolinians

Barbeque is a subject of intense interest and loyalties in North Carolina, a subject about which everyone thinks they’re right and that everyone else wouldn’t know a decent plate of ‘cue from a cue ball.  

-- Dennis Rogers

 

The previous post encouraged culinary cheating -- a quicker, easier way to create traditional, complex dishes.  An inappropriate term?  Well, the language may be somewhat unrefined, but it’s accurate and the idea is solid.  However you say it, it’s much better than gastronomic abstinence.  Trying an easier version of a classic dish may not look or taste completely authentic, but it’ll still be delicious, and give a real sense of accomplishment.  And, wishing hard won’t get you a pulled pork sandwich.

North Carolina BBQ is serious cuisine with well-guarded secrets and highly debated, detailed methods.  The proper way means the whole pig, flavorful rubs, getting the wood to the perfect temperature, keeping the wood at the perfect temperature, gradually adding more ashed-over wood, spritzing down flare-ups, slowly cooking with indirect heat for hours & hours until the pork is so tender, it falls off the bone as the fork comes into proximity.  Real North Carolina ‘cue is the South’s magnum opus.  ‘Cueing a whole hog isn’t a beginner’s project, but with determination, and a few smaller projects under your belt, it can be done.

Easy Kansas City BBQ Ribs

Sure, I condone cheating.  If it’s between cheating a little and never attempting a dish because “the proper way” is too difficult or time consuming, I have no problem with shortcutting it.  The result may not be completely authentic, but at the very least, it’ll be a pretty tasty interpretation.

Case in point: Kansas City BBQ ribs -- rubbing, marinating, getting the wood to the perfect temperature, keeping the wood at the perfect temperature, gradually adding more ashed-over wood, slowly cooking the ribs with indirect heat for 5-6 hours, apple juice spritzing at regular intervals, slathering both sides with rich, tomatoey molasses sauce until the meat is so tender, it falls off the bone as the fork comes into proximity.  My God!  True KC ribs are undeniably sumptuous, and will cause some serious finger licking; but authentically recreating such a masterpiece is not easy and isn’t done by many.

I figured out how to get really tender, flavorful ribs with that lovely inherent smokiness, but without staying up all night holding a juice-filled spray bottle.  The method: rub it, smoke it, braise it and glaze it -- that’s it.  Plus, if the rubbing & smoking are done the first day, then braising & glazing the next; not only do the tasks seem more manageable, but, the rub & smoke permeate the meat more fully.  

Southern Buttermilk Biscuits

Buttermilk biscuits.  The Kid calls them “tasty little bastards.”  I should probably reign in his profanity, but he’s right -- they are tasty little bastards.  Hot from the oven and slathered with butter & honey -- what more do you need on a Thursday night?  Maybe ham.

Fried Chicken & Domaine Ste. Michelle 2002 Luxe Sparkling

My husband says I’m trying to kill him.  Mmhmm ... he’s a pussy.  No one gets out of this life alive, and there are worse ways to die than by gustatory ecstasy.  Not that fried chicken is gustatory ecstasy per se, but a tasty, farm-raised chicken, well-seasoned and perfectly fried, served with a chilled glass of really good Champagne, is fairly close to the pinnacle.  Now, if the same (now perfectly chilled) chicken is quietly plucked from the fridge around midnight and served in the dark with a really good Champagne and a movie ... well, I think that’s the actual definition of gustatory ecstasy.  I could be wrong -- you can look it up.

The Sparkling Wine:

Luxe is luxe.  It’s decadent, creamy and toasty with an almost warm lemon exuberance to it -- at least that’s what it tastes like tonight.  The lovely synergy between sparkling wine and fried food is the refreshing, palate-cleansing bubbles that cut through the dish’s richness.  I want to believe it clears the richness right out of the arteries too, but I can’t prove that.  You could look it up though.  

Creamy Meyer Lemon & Chive Grits

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Deliciously creamy & lightly lemoned, these grits make an elegant side dish to grilled fish, roasted chicken or fried green tomatoes.

Creamy Meyer Lemon & Chive Grits

Based on The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook

Makes 3 cups

1 cup stone ground grits

3-1/2 cups water, plus more to float the chaff

1/2 cup milk

1/4 cup unsalted butter, divided

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

Pinch freshly ground white pepper, to taste

1 Tablespoon buttermilk, or more to taste

Zest of 1 Meyer lemon

1/4 cup snipped chives

Broiled Grits with Smoky Bacon & Sharp Cheddar

Broiled grits is an excellent dinner party dish.  Made and topped in advance, this method lets you focus on your guests, not your grits.  When it’s time to serve, place them under the broiler for a few minutes to heat the grits and melt the cheese.  It’s also a great way to use up leftovers.

For an authentic touch, stir the grease from the bacon right into the grits at the end to dirty them up -- just don't tell your cardiologist.  If you don’t want the extra step of cooking bacon, a little chopped Kentucky ham is a delicious substitution.  

Creamy, Simple Grits

Great grits require love.  Sure, a basic understanding of the cooking method is important; but with simple dishes, it helps to mentally jump into the pot, especially near the end when consistency & flavor are key.  That extra bit of love and attention can turn good grits into great grits.

A tip or two:

• A drizzle of buttermilk stirred into the finished dish gives it a delightful boost without being too acidic -- lemon juice can obliterate its inherent corniness.

Grits is Good

Grits -- a simple peasant dish of warm, creamy cornmeal; occasionally dirtied, mostly buttered, always textured, never instant (that’s heresy).  They say, “A man full of grits is a man at peace.”  True... true.  I’ve found this dish, more so than any other, will induce a Southerner’s wistful thoughts of youth, breakfasts past, and usually their mother.  Grits are well-loved by many -- it’s a dish of the people, by the people, and for the people.

Slow Weekend: Antinori, Fries & Coltrane

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Not much beats a slow weekend in the kitchen.  Pots simmering, chocolate things baking, crispy things frying, corks popping, spices wafting.  By yourself or with someone you love, slow weekend cooking is pleasurable.  Don’t forget to turn on a little Coltrane -- anything is gratifying with Coltrane.  Even sweeping is hot with John Coltrane.

The Fries:

This weekend, might I suggest French fries.  Deep-fried potatoes are delicious and good for your soul -- don’t let anyone tell you otherwise.  Deep-frying is actually quite easy to master.  Once you do, you’ll be deep-frying everything, trust me.  All you need is a heavy-bottomed pot, peanut or canola oil, a deep fat frying thermometer, a few potatoes and salt.  I defer to Anthony Bourdain for the perfect French fry instructions (recipe below).