The Marché du President Wilson (street market on Pres. Wilson Ave.) is a jovial group of passionate food artisans cooking and selling their goods, bundled together beneath a long row of adjoining tents. It’s like finding the entire city’s best products, but in one conveniently confined location -- a tour-ette of epicurean delights. Tack on a 3-hour/9-course lunch at l’Astrance, and this food walk evolves into the ultimate food lover’s mini-tour.
The 16e arrondissement is known for its posh real estate -- stately apartments, tree-lined streets, concentration of museums, and exceptional views of the Eiffel Tower from across the Seine -- so, it’s cool that a stretch down the center of one of its regal neighborhoods has the vivacious atmosphere of the marché. Not to imply the street market is bourgeoisie in such an area, like peasants peddling in the king’s courtyard -- these are true artisans with hand-crafted cheeses, beautiful pâtés, and heirloom produce. Plus, great food is high priority in France, and the creators highly regarded.
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The market begins just west of the l’Alma metro station on Avenue du President Wilson. Inside the tent, booths line both walls, running the entire length, leaving a narrow walkway down the center. There are displays of exotic seafood, frog legs and brightly colored fish. Giant rotisseries spin dozens of chickens dripping juices onto potatoes strategically roasting underneath. And then there's booth after booth of every cheese imaginable, plus a few more. The charcuterie is stunning -- handmade sausages, salumi, and various pâtés and terrines. Wild game, freshly shot and feathers still attached, is offered near an impressive array of prepped birds, including the rare black chickens. In the autumn months, wild mushrooms are foraged and brought to the market -- giant cepes, porcini and Paris buttons. There’s fresh pasta, fresh breads, fresh eggs; cured olives, dried fruits, whole nuts; pickled things, crafty things, snack things. There’s even a master galette-maker working four griddles at once! Dim sum, sandwiches, salads and wine -- all make a take-away lunch simple & tasty. The three-foot paella pan is filled to the brim with saffron-colored rice studded with seafood and vegetables. It’s marvelous! What’s more, the booth keepers are very friendly -- proud of their products and delighted to share their knowledge & have their photo taken. Not sure if I was mesmerized by the food or the joyful energy at le marché, but while inside, I don’t remember seeing or hearing anything from the outside world. It’s really quite hypnotic.
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Not eating at the market is an exercise in self-control, but if it’s possible, only buy things to take home, then there will be room for lunch at nearby l’Astrance, a four-star gastronomic restaurant where the chef is hailed as this generation’s culinary genius. (Side note: l’Astrance features produce from Joel Theibault, one of the booths in the marché.) l’Astrance offers multi-course tasting menus, so every bit of appetite is mandatory and much appreciated. But for those that lack the necessary will-power, make a reservation for dinner and work up a hunger at the handful of local museums. Regardless of the reservation time, swing by the Trocadéro (between the marché & l’Astrance) to catch an amazing view of the Eiffel Tower.
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This two-step tour may not seem like much, but it’s not the size that counts, it’s the substance. The truest foodie will find an almost overwhelming sense of pleasure and appreciation being immersed for hours in such a high level of culinary artistry.
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Marche du President Wilson
Avenue President Wilson & Rue Debrousse
Metro: Alma-Marceau - head west
Wed & Sat 7-2:30
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