‘Cue is the great sacrament of our people. No transubstantiation required. It are what we are.
--North Carolinians
Barbeque is a subject of intense interest and loyalties in North Carolina, a subject about which everyone thinks they’re right and that everyone else wouldn’t know a decent plate of ‘cue from a cue ball.
-- Dennis Rogers
The previous post encouraged culinary cheating -- a quicker, easier way to create traditional, complex dishes. An inappropriate term? Well, the language may be somewhat unrefined, but it’s accurate and the idea is solid. However you say it, it’s much better than gastronomic abstinence. Trying an easier version of a classic dish may not look or taste completely authentic, but it’ll still be delicious, and give a real sense of accomplishment. And, wishing hard won’t get you a pulled pork sandwich.
North Carolina BBQ is serious cuisine with well-guarded secrets and highly debated, detailed methods. The proper way means the whole pig, flavorful rubs, getting the wood to the perfect temperature, keeping the wood at the perfect temperature, gradually adding more ashed-over wood, spritzing down flare-ups, slowly cooking with indirect heat for hours & hours until the pork is so tender, it falls off the bone as the fork comes into proximity. Real North Carolina ‘cue is the South’s magnum opus. ‘Cueing a whole hog isn’t a beginner’s project, but with determination, and a few smaller projects under your belt, it can be done.
Before tackling a major BBQ project, here’s a much easier way to get really tender, juicy, smoky pulled pork with an old-timey Eastern North Carolina vinegar sauce. The method: rub it, smoke it, braise it and pull it -- that’s it. And, if the rubbing & smoking are done the first day, then braising and pulling it the next; not only do the tasks seem more manageable, but, the rub & smoke more fully permeate the meat.
Step 1: Rub It
I rub Boston butt/pork shoulder (4-6 ounce pieces) with the same spice mix as fried chicken - it’s a great all-purpose rub. Made in a larger batch & kept on hand, this mixture can be rubbed on any meat, fish, vegetables and popcorn.
Sprinkle pork with kosher salt and spice mixture; rub in well. Set aside at room temperature while lighting the smoker. Easy.
Step 2: Smoke It
Any type of smoker will work; just keep in mind, this project needs 45 minutes to an hour of strong, billowy smoke.
An electric smoker is simple: fill the wood chip bowl & plug it in; it’s ready to go in about 10 minutes. Place pork butt on designated racks, lower into smoker, cover and let it smoke for 45-60 minutes. Place meat on parchment-lined sheetpan (ready for oven), cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. (Baggies also work really well and don’t take as much fridge space.) Easy.
Side Note: The type of wood chip is a matter of preference. Mesquite, apple, & cherry woods are not as strong as hickory or oak.
Optional Step 2.5: Grill It
Charcoal grilling the pork isn’t absolutely necessary, but it adds a beautiful caramelized crust and another really great flavor layer, making the finished dish more complex and authentic. Now, it does add on time and the cost of charcoal, but if the charcoal is lit about the time the pork goes into the smoker, it’s an easy transfer (if the grill is next to the smoker). Plus, leftover charcoal heat can be used for that evening’s dinner or grilled vegetables for tomorrow’s pasta salad, etc.
Step 3: Braise It
Place pork in a baking dish, pour in 1/2 to an inch of water, cover tightly with foil, and place in a 290° oven for 3 to 6 hours, or until the meat easily falls apart when forked. Check the water occasionally, adding more as necessary to maintain the level. Easy.
Step 4: Pull It
When pork is extremely tender, remove foil, drain excess liquid (reserving it) and let cool enough to handle. Shred pork, discarding fat, and place in a bowl. Toss with Dennis Roger’s Holy Grub Sauce and some of the reserved braising liquid to keep the meat moist. Serve with buttered buns and cabbage slaw. Easy.
This shortcut still takes a fair amount of time, but it requires very little attention, and the result is a very tasty pulled pork sandwich! I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, cheatin’s good, and it tastes better than a wish.
Dennis Roger’s Holy Grub Sauce
Holy Smoke: The Big Book of North Carolina Barbeque
1/2 gallon cider vinegar
1/2 cup brown sugar or molasses
1.5 Tablespoons crushed red pepper
1 Tablespoon cayenne
1/8 cup kosher salt
Mix and let stand for at least 4 hours.
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