Buttermilk Biscuits with Kentucky Ham, Molasses Butter & Creole Chile Jam

“Grazing is a state of being in the South. In fact, many of our community cookbooks from the twentieth century are front-heavy, with so many more hors d’oeuvre and finger-food recipes than main courses (or even desserts) that it makes you wonder why we even bother with the rest of the meal.  It’s actually plain good sense: as any southerner knows, a dizzying array of nibbles in view when your guests arrive is the utmost gesture of hospitality.”

-- The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook

One of my favorite Southern appetizers is a ham biscuit -- Kentucky smoked ham on a buttermilk biscuit -- it’s that simple.  However, because it’s only two things put together, the biscuits better be great and the ham even better.

A real, aged country ham is remarkably different in flavor and texture from a mass-produced ham.  An authentic country ham is considered the South’s prosciutto -- it’s smoky, wild, gamy and salty.

Col. Bill Newsom’s Kentucky hams are hand-cured (nitrate & nitrite free) using a 200 year old family method, slow-smoked over hickory, and hung for several months to age.  This traditional, painstakingly long process is becoming a lost art.  Not mass-produced or distributed wholesale, these artisan hams are handled only 18 times before arriving at your door with a numbered certificate.   Foodies everywhere are grateful to Nancy Newsom Mahaffey (aka, the Ham Lady) for continuing her grandfather’s tradition.

Dryness tends to be a problem with just ham on biscuits, especially if they sit for any length of time.  I definitely prefer a little dabble of something flavorful to keep them moist; something that will compliment the ham & let it shine.  A touch of Creole or Dijon mustard does the trick.  Sorghum molasses or honey whipped into butter is also delightful.  Or both molasses butter and mustard ... oooh.  Tomato jam or onion jam can add great flavor as well as texture.  

I fiddled around in the kitchen, beginning with a handful of recipes and a distinct flavor idea in my head.  The result was a basic onion jam with some heat (Ancho chiles in adobo & Creole mustard), zing (apple cider vinegar), and sweetness (pie spices, apricot jam & molasses).  It really compliments the ham and gives the dish that extra little something.

Wine Recommendations:  The dish’s combination of sweet, salty, gamy and spicy screams for something pink.  Blanc de Noirs is absolutely fabulous and festive if the biscuits are served as an appetizer.  A dry rose is also a no-brainer for smoky ham and onions.

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Buttermilk Biscuits with Kentucky Ham, Molasses Butter & Creole Chile Jam

makes 20

1/2 cup softened butter

Sorghum molasses or local honey, to taste

20 appetizer size buttermilk biscuits

Creole Chile Jam, recipe follows

20 thin slices Kentucky smoked ham

(the photo above features Kentucky boiled ham, so it's sliced a little thicker)

Whip butter and molasses together; set aside.  Split baked biscuits in half and generously spread each side with molasses butter.  Dot all the bottom halves with jam; top each with a slice of ham.  Place the tops on and serve immediately.  If not serving right away, wrap well in plastic wrap and store in refrigerator.  Let come to room temperature with plastic wrap on before serving.

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Creole Chile Jam

makes about 1 cup

1 Tablespoon butter

1 red onion, chopped small dice

3 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1 bay leaf

1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

2 Tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 Ancho chile in adobo, seeded & finely minced

3 Tablespoons apricot jam

2 Tablespoons molasses

Kosher salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon Creole mustard, or more to taste

Heat skillet over medium heat.  Add butter; when melted and begins to bubble, stir in onion, garlic, thyme, bay leaf and a pinch of salt.  Saute until caramelized.  Add spices; saute until fragrant, about 15 seconds.  Deglaze pan with vinegar.  Reduce heat to low and stir in ancho chile, apricot jam and molasses; simmer until thickened and flavors come together.  Season to taste with salt, pepper, and mustard.  

Side Note: heat varies from chile to chile; proceed cautiously.  Adding adobo, a little at a time, at the end is a safe way to control the heat. 

Side-Side Note: If jam is too sweet, add a little more vinegar - it should have some good tang.

Comments

[Ham]

This sounds like Sunday morning breakfast at my Granny's, but the Creole Chili Jam is definitely a twist. My dad would LOVE this! Thanks for the great recipe. ;)

[Kentucky Ham]

I have never seen these biscuits with a sauce on them. I have always just had them with baked honey ham and buttermilk biscuits. I will have to try this recipe asap!