In the South, barbeque is not just a food, “...it’s a cultural ritual, practiced with a kind of religious fervor among various barbeque sects, each of whom believes their particular concoction of smoke and sauce and spices is the only true way to culinary salvation.”
-- William Schmidt, New York Times
The great thing about decades of fervent Southern ‘cue feuds? The rest of us reveling in the proceeds. A hundred years, give or take, of focused effort on the perfect medium, the best methods, precise timing, just the right to-go-withs; there can’t possibly be anything else to discover about barbeque. With generations of proving this and trying that, it stands to reason the subject is pert’ near all-inclusive. Now, getting hold of those highly protected secrets ... well, that’s a whole ‘nother thang.
The most famous Southern barbeque sects share common practices, yet each have their own unique style, and each believe the others practice heresy.
• Kansas City, Missouri
Known for jazz, blues & the sweet, tangy, liberally slathered barbeque sauces that evolved from the pit of Henry Perry. Kansas City sauces are almost exclusively tomato-based and most have molasses. Alabama, Texas & Kentucky fall loosely under this category.
• North Carolina
Tar Heels are passionately devoted to their ‘cue -- it means the whole hog, leisurely cooked over wood, and served with a traditional, vinegar-based sauce.
Except for Piedmont (NC’s center region). Particularly Salisbury & Lexington, in the early days of selling ‘cue, began the “sacrilege” of cooking just parts of the hog (shoulder, loins, ham) and serving it sliced, chopped or pulled. And if that’s not rebellious enough, they also like a little ketchup laced into the traditional vinegar sauce.
• South Carolina
Basically believes in the same church of ‘cue as NC, but are avid mustardites down there.
Except for Orangeburg County -- they love their mustardy sauce with pickle juice and Duke’s mayonnaise.
South Carolina is divided thusly: the large, eastern region is full of vinegar & pepper fans; the big chunk in the center has the mustardites; a long, thin section at the west edge goes to the ketchupers; and a sliver at the northern border is for the tomato lovers.
Confused? I know. But, it’s all good, it’s all good. Through years of struggle, clever experimentation, inordinate determination, uncompromising ideals, and probable neighborly crossfire, the South gave the world ‘cue -- a gastronomic glory. Now, if you find a really great, authentic concoction or highly-guarded method, you’ll share, right?
Excellent ‘Cue Sources:
• Peace, Love & Barbeque: Recipes, Secrets, Tall Tales & Outright Lies from the Legends of Bbq - Mike Mills & Amy Mills Tunnicliffe
• Holy Smoke: The Big Book of North Carolina Barbeque - John Shelton Reed, Dale Volberg Reed & William McKinney
• Searching for the Dixie Barbeque: Journeys in the Southern Psyche - Wilber W. Caldwell
• BBQ Joints: Stories & Secret Recipes from the Barbeque Belt - David Gelin
• Kansas City Barbeque Society Cookbook: Bbq...It’s Not Just for Breakfast Anymore
• Texas BBQ: a Series in Texas History, Life & Culture - Wyatt McSpadden & John Morthland
• Smokestack Lightning: Adventures in the Heart of Barbeque Country - Lolis Eric Elie & Frank Stewart
• Real Barbeque: The Classic Bbq Guide to the Best Joints Across the USA - Vince Staten & Greg Johnson
• Southern BBQ Trail, the history, tradition & culture
• Southern Barbeque, dedicated to the art
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