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Not much beats a slow weekend in the kitchen. Pots simmering, chocolate things baking, crispy things frying, corks popping, spices wafting. By yourself or with someone you love, slow weekend cooking is pleasurable. Don’t forget to turn on a little Coltrane -- anything is gratifying with Coltrane. Even sweeping is hot with John Coltrane.
The Fries:
This weekend, might I suggest French fries. Deep-fried potatoes are delicious and good for your soul -- don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. Deep-frying is actually quite easy to master. Once you do, you’ll be deep-frying everything, trust me. All you need is a heavy-bottomed pot, peanut or canola oil, a deep fat frying thermometer, a few potatoes and salt. I defer to Anthony Bourdain for the perfect French fry instructions (recipe below).
The Wine:
Might I also suggest something red from Antinori? I love the nose on the Marchese Chianti Classico -- it’s wonderful. Peppoli and Villa Antinori are also good. And, if you’re looking to spend about ten bucks, Santa Christina fits the bill nicely. A smooth, earthy Italian red will compliment a myriad of earthy foods -- mushrooms, Parmesan, Prosciutto, and potatoes, to name a few. And, a really good glass of wine is much like Coltrane -- it makes drying the dishes an absolute pleasure.
Les Halles Fries
Anthony Bourdain’s Les Halles Cookbook
The oil - peanut / the potato - russet / the blanch - 280°, 6-8 minutes / the fry - 375°, 2-3 minutes
Peel 4 Idaho russet potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch sticks and put them immediately into a bowl of ice water to keep them from oxidizing. Leave them in the water anywhere from 30 minutes to overnight, then rinse them well in cold water to take out much of the starch.
Side Note: I lay the potatoes out on a few clean dishtowels for 30 minutes or so -- ridding the potatoes of excess water reduces spattering when they hit the oil.
In a deep fryer or heavy-bottomed pot, heat 2 quarts (or more, if needed) of peanut oil to 280°. Cook the potatoes in batches, about 6-8 minutes for each batch, until they are soft and their color has paled from opaque white to semi-translucent white. Do not get impatient and yank them out early. Remove them from the oil with the skimmer or wire basket and spread evenly on the baking sheet. Let them rest at least 15 minutes.
Bring the oil up to 375°. No hotter, no cooler. Fry the blanched potatoes in batches for 2 to 3 minutes each, or until they are crispy and golden brown. Remove from the oil with the skimmer or wire basket, shake off the excess oil, and immediately drop the fries into a large bowl which has been lined with a clean. dry towel. Add salt to taste and whip out the towel. Toss the fries around the bowl and serve while still hot.
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