What happens when Italian caffè houses, a bohemian bookstore, funky wine bars, and a really big-grass park come together? -- North Beach. Casually strolling down Columbus Avenue, I started to get a real sense of its cultural heritage, its poetic history, ... mmmmm, and its really delicious smells.
Beatniks made North Beach famous. Back in the 50s, San Francisco’s Italian Quarter became a breeding ground for young, bohemian writers, poets and artists reveling in nonconformity and hedonistic creativity. They sipped caffè, philosophized, read poetry, and blended an artistic, free-thinking cultural phenomena with years of Italian tradition & culture.
It’s this brilliant, fortuitous fusion that gives North Beach its unique identity -- it’s an eclectic concoction of upstanding tradition, a pinch or two of colorful indelicacy, and a good dose of swank and groove.
Here’s a tour of Little Italy, mostly gastronomic, of course, with a smattering of cool must-sees. The list begins at the north-end of Columbus and works its way down:
XOX Truffles
754 Columbus, bet. Greenwich & Filbert
When I first stepped into XOX, I wasn’t sure if the truffles were worth adding to my ever-increasing treat stockpile to take back to Seattle. I gave in & purchased a small box thinking (alright, this is awful) if they weren’t worth the calories, I’d give them to my husband as a surprise. I popped one in my mouth before reaching Filbert, turned immediately, ran back into the shop, & thanked the owner for making such amazing truffles. They are that good.
Graffeo Coffee Company
735 Columbus @Filbert
Pick up freshly roasted coffee beans to take home.
Da Flora Italian Restaurant
701 Columbus @Filbert
Small, charming restaurant swathed in red velvet, oil paintings and eclectic pieces. Fantastic food - the gnocchi is not to be missed!
Washington Square Park
Columbus @Filbert
Beautiful park - great place to sip espresso & sit with some of the older locals watching the kids play.
Saints Peter & Paul’s Church
666 Filbert Street, bet. Powell & Stockton
“The Italian Church of the West” has beautiful twin towers and stained-glass windows. Joe DiMaggio & Marilyn Monroe took their wedding photos on the steps, and both Dirty Harry and the Ten Commandments were filmed here.
Caffè Trieste
601 Vallejo @Grant
This is the West Coast’s first espresso house; and apparently, Francis Ford Coppola wrote the screenplay for The Godfather here.
Mario’s Bohemian Cafe & Cigars
566 Columbus @Union
Mario’s is a swanky little bar chock full of history; it’s usually packed with locals, so go early.
Rose Pistola
532 Columbus
Famous restaurant - check out their cookbook. Reed Hearon focuses mostly on simple, rustic Ligurian cuisine. Don’t miss the live jazz on the weekends.
Caffè Roma
526 Columbus, bet. Union & Stockton
Where the locals hang out & sip excellent espresso.
La Raccolta
521 Columbus, bet. Union & Green
The front of the house has imported ceramics, the back features handmade pastas, olive oils, antipasti, honey, etc.
L’Osteria del Forno
519 Columbus
One of the best Italian restaurants in North Beach - everything is made in the wood-burning oven. The focaccia sandwiches are mighty tasty. Note: closed Tuesdays no reservations; cash only.
Stella Bakery & Cafe
446 Columbus bet. Stockton & Vellejo
Home to the patented Sacripantina, a dome of layered sponge cake filled with zabaglione, cream, rum & covered with toasted sponge cake crumbs. Ooooooh!
Little City Market Selected Meats
1400 Stockton @Vellejo
The Spinalis offer handmade Sicilian sausage, eggs, chicken, meatloaf ready to cook at home or they’ll grind a meatloaf blend to your specifications.
Caffè Greco
423 Columbus @Vallejo
Fabulous espresso.
Caffè Puccini
411 Columbus @Vallejo
Best known for it’s espresso.
Molinari Delicatessen
373 Columbus
Stop in for picnic fare, or take a little somethin’-somethin’ up to Washington Square Park -- cheese, ravioli, salumi & really, really big sandwiches.
City Lights Bookstore
261 Columbus Avenue
The infamous bookstore where Beatniks hung out & got their books published - a definite must-see.
Vesuvio Cafe
255 Columbus @Jack Kerouac Alley
A very well-known literary bar - part of the Beatnik tour.
Tosca Cafe
242 Columbus Avenue@Broadway
One of Frisco’s oldest cafes. The house cappuccino is hot chocolate & brandy.
Caffè Macaroni
124 Columbus Avenue
Most entrees fall under $15, making it in the “cheap but really good” category.
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