I believe a restaurant truly excels when: being immutably full for three days of gastronomic pleasure, you not only eat more, but enticed by the menu, you opt for the five-course tasting lunch instead of the intended three.
But that’s how it played out at Fleur de Sel. I figured since I had a reservation and was somewhat in the neighborhood, I’d check it out and have two bites; but once I sat down, everything was so inviting, I just kept eating. Sounds like a lack of will power; let’s instead call it fortitude.
Like many of the city’s finest restaurants, Fleur de Sel features a neutral decor with soft lights and fresh flowers, and a knowledgeable, attentive staff. But one thing I really fancied was the table in the center of the dining room; it contains metal inserts that hold each table’s wines and bottled water. When your glass gets low, anyone from the service staff just looks for the bottle in your hole, so to speak.
The menu is beautiful – many classic flavor combinations, mostly traditional French preparations, and some intriguing, modern twists. Plus, the wine list is stellar. Chef Cyril Renaud offers a three-course tasting lunch for $25 (with matching wines $46); the five-course is $42 ($78 with all five wines).
First course: Goat cheese & artichoke ravioli with beet puree and micro greens.
The combination is classic spring; the execution was flawless. The pasta was tender and thin – and I’m very picky about pasta.
Second Course: Maine lobster with black truffle mayonnaise, Asian pear & vanilla foam
Holy smokes! Lobster, vanilla and black truffle - gosh, I hated to “pique” so early in the meal, but it simply could not be helped.
Third Course: Braised & pan-seared veal breast with cauliflower puree and brussel sprouts
The veal was moist and meltingly tender with a crisp top – clean flavors, nice presentation.
Cheese Course: Assorted artisanal cheeses with honey, fruit compote & walnut bread
It’s been so long since I’d had a cheese plate, I’d forgotten how lovely it is in the procession of a great meal.
Dessert: Fresh grapefruit and vanilla mascarpone tart, tarragon ice cream, and garnished with burned caramel & orange cream
I would have never put this flavor combination together, but it worked and was interesting. There were a lot of contrasts on the plate – zesty fresh grapefruit, rich & creamy vanilla mascarpone, curious & intense tarragon ice cream. The dots of burned caramel and orange cream gave a slightly sweet, aromatic hit that reigned in the grapefruit and gave the tarragon another dimension.
Lunch at Fleur de Sel was lovely. Being so full and satisfied, I should’ve gone to the hotel room for a little lie down, but I had 5 chocolate/pastry shops on the afternoon’s agenda. Oh, I know, poor me. No worries though, about an hour later a little more fortitude kicked in.
Fleur de Sel
5 East 20th Street, bet 5th & Broadway
New York, NY 10003
212.460.9100
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